Rainy end

After second day of heavy rain, decided to stop at Pinkham Notch and head back to the world. Left knee and both Achilles tendons all counseled caution, cold and wind sealed the deal. Until another time.

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Ethan Pond shelter 9/28, AMC Highlands Center 9/29

Long day Monday, 14.5 miles, though last 4 mostly level past Zealand Falls hut. To Ethan Pond, drizzling foretelling heavy rains coming next few days. Beautiful run of sun had to end sometime. Very dark early, and once again alone, except for the moose bugling later from the pond.



Hiked in heavy blowing rain Tuesday morning, to Highland Center bunkhouse (again all to myself) and a wet day to stay dry and relax, just like Corey and I did in 2005.

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Garfield Ridge shelter 9/27

Steep climb up to Franconia Ridge, barely one mile an hour. But then above treeline and stunning views from Mt. Lafayette.
Down and up to Garfield shelter, a very difficult and tiring 11 mile day. Full moon with lunar eclipse, but I go to sleep by 8:30 and miss most of it, catching tail end at 11.

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Slacking Kinsman 9/26

Staying 2 nights at the wonderfull Notch Hostel in N.Woodstock, just opened in July, very nice place and people. Justin drove me out to Kinsman Notch so I could slack pack 18 miles over Kinsman Mt to Franconia Notch, carrying about 10lbs instead of 30, returning to same comfy hostel. I did the same thing in 1982, hitching back and forth to a motel, but in 2005 nephew Corey and I carried full gear and camped one night. All things considered, much prefer slacking.
Tough hiking regardless, beautiful day.

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Moosilauke summit, and waterfall, 9/25

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Sunset from Smarts Mt firetower

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VT and NH

Back to the trail, lovely stretch of weather, just too warm for September, mid-80's waking up the bugs.



Stratton Mt.

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Medical update

I had the second procedure, the "conservative excisional biopsy" done last week. This week got the stitches out as well as the results. "Invasive well differentiated squamous cell carcinoma." The surgeon cut it all out, and the only worrisome part was the thickness and slight invasion into subcutaneous tissue. But should be fine, just have to be more attentive and proactive in the future. Will leave a nice 4 inch scar, since the surgeon had to cut out a long elipse in order to stitch it back together.

Before and after, not for the sqeamish:

End of trail, for now

Even though I appreciated the cooler weather the last 3 days, the earlier humidity and sudden bug onslaught reminded me why I don't like the woods in summer. Aside from the no-seeums, biting flies and mosquitoes, it means ticks, and almost as annoying, lots of little green caterpillars sliding down from the denuded trees to end up smeared on neck, face, clothes, pack. Just disgusting.
Plus I need to have another biopsy done, since the results of the first were so uncertain. "Atypical squamous epithelium" which means neither normal not necessarily pre-cancerous.
And an opportunity this weekend which I can't miss, a reunion in Boston with my old roommates and friends there from the 70's.
Enough already with the excuses.

So this hike, and blog, end for now on the Hudson. Expect to return in fall and continue northbound.
I'll close with a shot of the "Lemon Squeezer." Trail legend has it that Marilyn Monroe tried to go through it back in the 50's.

Bear Mt.

I found this assemblage on a rock on the approach to Bear Mt., which overlooks the Hudson and from which you can see a bit of Manhattan on a clear day. It was too hazy yesterday.



Clearly the detritus of a philosopher, so I likewise seek to find some meaning in this. Beats me, just another wanderer shedding the weight, if not the worries.
Coincidentally, one of the left behind books was Seneca's Letters from a Stoic. My first night out on the trail way back in April I stayed at Crampton Gap shelter. Among those there were a young couple from Baltimore, just out for the night hoping to sleep since the sirens from the rioting over the sad death of Freddie Gray kept them up the previous night. The guy was reading this same title.

Beautiful day continued

This area is quite scenic, never know you're just 52 miles from Manhattan -- on foot that is, by way of the Long Path.




For a short day, 14.3 miles, not counting the half to and back on the Orange Turnpike for wonderful springwate,  not easy, with the up and downs. And the midges that came out when the sun broke through. 

Harriman State Park is very parklike with large grassy areas, graced with these rather dirty shelters. This is Fingerboard shelter.

Trail fauna Arden Mt.

I've seen several Baltimore Orioles, toads, even a couple of these lizards.



And then there was this large egg on trail, no idea whose.

Beautiful day

Complete change from yesterday: cool and breezy, felt like fall. Good thing because the trail was even harder today, cutting across the grain of the terrain, up and down deep ravines.
Fitzgerald Falls:



Trail vertical

Wildcat shelter

Yesterday was the worst day in terms of humidity and non-stop bugs. Had to wear my headnet most of the day. Rain and fog eventually turned to sun but so muggy. Some views later in the day, but tbe rocks stayed slippery and I slid a few times, scraping my already sore leg.
The water from the stream at the shelter looked clear but full of tannin even after filtering.

Vernon NJ

Decided to celebrate my two year retirement anniversary by getting a motel with a great pub restaurant nearby. For dinner a terrific Portobello mushroom burger smothered in cheese and cooked spinach, and of course Yuengling on draft.
Another warm muggy day to start, but it then clouded up, cooled a little, and looked like rain. Maybe a storm tonight or tomorrow morning, then improving. Met "Selfie" last night at the shelter, 62 and also retired, from Provence and very French. Hiked with him today, but he kept moving at the road crossing to town, in a hurry to get the train to NYC in 5 days for sightseeing. Bugs don't seem to bother him.
So here's my selfie with Selfie, as we crossed the Pochuck nature preserve.

High Point, New Jersey

Very warm, humid and buggy. Chance of showers tomorrow so might be a little cooler. Now if there was just some way to turn off the bugs.
Nice view at top of New Jersey.

Catfish Fire Tower

This tower right on the AT dates to 1922, one of 21 manned fire towers in New Jersey. Cheaper than using observers in airplanes. They still use land phone lines to call in fires since those are most reliable. Learned all this chatting with the very friendly fire warden, who no doubt gets lonely sitting up here 8 hours a day scanning the horizon for smoke. At one point when I was young I thought of this as a dream job.

Another day in the Gap

I had my first ever medical event on the trail, ignoring when I started what I assumed was a cyst on my leg. It got worse, becoming tender and inflamed, so I went to a clinic in nearby Wind Gap to get it biopsied and cut out. Great excuse to rest another day, and go drink beer and listen to jazz at the Deer Head Inn. The trail can wait.

Delaware Water Gap

After another 20 miles of walking on rocks I think I'm due for my first zero day. My feet agree. 270 miles in 16 days.

Palmerton Zinc Pile Superfund site

This is the zinc smelter which so badly polluted the ridge where the trail goes through Lehigh Gap. At one point this factory produced 75% of the world's zinc. Over the 90 years it was in full production it killed off all the vegetation in the area, and likely some of the residents of Palmerton.
In 1982 the ridge was totally barren, a lunar landscape. Now after years of cleanup it's green again, with planted birch and pines among the dead trees, even some flowers like bleeding heart plants.

Trail view

All the thru-hikers are complaining about how sore their feet are, due to the rocky trail. You'd think after 1250 miles they'd be used to it. But the rocks are what make Pennsylvania special. Very warm and sunny today, bugs abounding.

The Pinnacle

Only 1615ft. but high ground around here.
85 degrees and humid and buggy.

Peanut Shop, Port Clinton

Next door to the hotel, only other business in town. Friendly staff, wonderful and imaginative selection, but I limited myself to dried apple slices, peanuts (of course)
and trail mix.

Port Clinton PA

24 miles to town, fortunately cooler and cloudy weather. But still a lot of rocky trail, everyone complaining of sore if not bruised soles. Staying at the hotel, cheap dive but lively bar scene on Saturday night.

Trail fauna

A thru-hiker saw a rattlesnake earlier today, just off the trail. I've seen 2 turtles, andl these hangliders last night.

Rausch Gap shelter

Back in 1982 this deluxe shelter was called the Hilton, with stone patio and running water.
Last time through it was looking its age, but it was rebuilt in 2012 and looks great now. Had it all to myself,
Old coal mining region in 1830's with some iron deposits as well, lots of old roads and ruins.

Peter's Mt. Shelter

Left Duncannon early to beat the forecasted rain. This observation tower on the edge of town was full of turkey vultures.



Humid and showery as I crossed the Susquehanna River.



Stopped at first shelter for a water and snack break mid-morning and sat out several more showers. Turned into a 2 hour wait, so had lunch as well, until it finally cleared off briefly. Now at next shelter, only an 11 mile day. Cloudy, and a light shower just now.

Carrying lots of food, too much, so will work on lightening the load tonight.

Later at Doyle's

Many of the other hikers only stopped for lunch before moving on, so only a German mother and her 17 yr old son are staying here. They did a very long day, 26 miles from Boiling Springs, starting at 3:30am. Putting me to shame. The son needs new boots after 1146.9 miles, hoping to get them at Cabelas in 4 more days. Mother Nature and Between (so named because he's between high school and college) first hiked a section of the AT five years ago, and enjoyed it so much they decided to do the whole thing, starting in February and suffering accordingly.

Doyle's Hotel, Duncannon PA

Short hot hike, up early so Joey can catch his ride at noon. Threatens rain but doesn't, 11 miles of rocksylvania where every step is on a rolling rock. I've enjoyed Joe and Joey's company, though slow and at times complaining. Learned lots about Puerto Rico, Florida and Seventh Day Adventists.
I've taught them a few hiking tricks and they seemed to appreciate my advice and trail stories.
This is my 4th stay at the Doyle, shabby and timeless as ever. Nice to take the afternoon off, and later a veggie burger and beer. And the bar closes at 9pm, true hiker midnight.

Darlington shelter

Tenting tonight since shelter pretty full, with 3 thru-hikers, bunch of section hikers. Talk with 72 yr. old Lucky, a former newspaper reporter, started in GA in February and now doing big miles (60 in 3 days, not slacking), who even found time to hitch for pizza and brought a lot back to offer others.
Today was hot and dry, 15 miles with 2 1/2 hour lunch break/siesta in the shade; tomorrow showers likely in afternoon; 11 miles to Duncannon.
Very interesting privy here, called the Taj Mahal.

Boiling Springs

This cold spring water bubbles up under such pressure that it looks like it's boiling. Pretty little village.





The trains last night were exciting and noisy. 4 went by in the evening, last around 10pm, next one I heard was around 4:30am.

Dinner experiment

We had to walk the 1/2 mile into town to get water from the Mid-Atlantic ATC HQ, where there was a hiker box of leftover or left off stuff. Found this 4 serving packet of Soylent and decided to see what all the fuss about this food replacement was.



You're supposed to shake it vigorously but I only have my pot to stir and then drink from.



Looks like cement, no real taste, so I added instant milk and hot chocolate mix to make it a treat. Will carry it down the trail for the nutritional supplement.
Exhausted now, drinking my rum zinger and watching the full moon rise.