Maine summary

Left Goreham 9/7/2019, summited Katahdin 10/3/2019

I wasn't in the best of shape when I left after taking the summer off, and suffered for it the first week or so, especially in the wet and rocky mountains of southwest Maine. Slipped hard on one rockface, slid into a bog and got one leg mucky almost to knee, danced with the boulders of Mahoosic Notch (took 1 1/4 hours this time), managed to fall once early in the Notch but caught myself and in the process slightly strained my left shoulder, but no real damage. Had to learn how to walk in my new Altra Lone Peaks, and when to trust the grip of the soles which mostly worked fine. Of course the toe guards started failing almost immediately, but I used super glue and Shoe Goo to hold them together. Eventually my left knee started letting me know that it wasn't having much fun, but responded well enough to applications of THC/CBD salve.

Several slack days in Andover, of course staying again at Pine Ellis -- most hikers went to the fancier new hostel Human Nature, but I enjoyed revisiting. I met Bruno and Diane who were staying at the Tiny House -- he had come up from SC to finish his last stretch of the AT but just didn't feel like it, deciding to have a vacation instead. They gave me beer and some of his trail food and he shared great hiking stories about Europe and the camino. A rainy zero day and yet another massage there, very worthwhile.

I decided to revisit other hostels whenever convenient, including the Hiker Hut near Rangeley, checking in with Steve. Then over Saddleback two days later, in mist and bitterly cold wind.

On to Stratton, slacking the Bigelows on a magnificent day, chatting with lots of hikers, stopping for any blueberries that were still hanging on.

And of course pancake breakfast again at Harrison's camp at Pierce Pond -- couldn't stay as I did 5 years ago because this time it was fully booked with a large group of guys tailgating, generous with their beer though.

Across the Kennebec and to the reborn Carratunk House, where I stayed 19 years ago -- Paul had closed it in 2004, reopened it a few years ago, with prices unchanged! Terrific breakfast, and fun to reconnect with him. He pulled out his hiker album from 2000 and showed me my picture, along with those of Sunny, Elderberry, Crow, Spur, etc.

On to Monson and into the 100 mile, again slacking the first 15 miles, then over Barren and Chairback, harder than ever, with rain, until blue sky again on White Cap and first view of Katahdin, hiking with So Far So Good.

And closer still from Nesuntabunt

And finally the magic mountain from Abol Bridge.

Hitched ride into Millinocket and stayed again at the AT Lodge with Ole Man and Navigator, with lots of hikers finishing up, including folks I last saw in Damascus, Turbo and Lighthouse. Sock Puppet and Tales, No Collar, and many more had already finished. 

So Far So Good's son drove up from Asheville NC to climb Katahdin with his mom, and we had a good time going up the Hunt trail, the official AT, now including a detour since the bridge over Katahdin stream was out. I celebrated at the cairn sharing a beer with Rodney's memory, and took the requisite Katahdin sign photo doing my imitation of the Pieta. Then we descended by way of the supposedly easier Abol Campground trail which turned out to be a wicked cliff face descent then a long reroute which made it longer and harder then the Hunt trail. And that completes number 3.

1000 mile wrap up

I stopped updating the blog and just sent random photos as emails in June, so this after-hike post must serve as a catch basin for some closing thoughts and pictures from this southern AT experience.

I finished up by slacking 20 miles to Daleville from Four Pines Hostel in Catawba on 6/21, a cool windy day to start, going over McAfee Knob and Tinker Cliffs, following the ridge all day until the last descent into town. I had a final motel picnic with Wizard and Sal, who were close to finishing up their hikes--they were meeting a friend at the Roanoke airport to do some more hiking for their final week before returning to British Columbia. We celebrated by re-enacting the Three's Company cast photo from the 70's TV show.

A fitting bookend to this hike, along with the photo of me, Silly Human, and Kibs as the Three Stooges, from way back on May 5th at Low Gap, 4th day out from Springer.

The last blog entry was from Erwin, from where I slacked several days up to Roan, staying once again at Greasy Creek Friendly hostel with Connie, still the same fun place.

I stopped at several of the hostels clustered around Hampton TN, near Laurel Creek Falls, and slackpacked much of the way to Damascus over several days. Below is from Station 19E, which featured craft beer and great food downstairs, with a bunkhouse upstairs.

I reached Damascus on 6/5, staying at Crazy Larry's and taking a day off from the rain to dump my 2nd pair of Salomon boots, starting to leak after only 300 miles. I replaced them with lowcut Altra lone peak runners -- what a difference, I was an easy convert to the reduced weight and reconciled to wet feet, since these would actually dry out faster than boots. It then proceeded to rain heavily the next 4 days, but Wizard and Sal and I decided to just keep dancing in the rain with umbrellas. Totally saturated.

Here are Sal and Wizard at Thomas Knob shelter on Mt. Rogers, where the rain flooded the trail and everything else. But we did see one wet pony. 

We took shelter finally at Massie Gap by going to the Grayson Highland Campground and Inn, but the only room left was the laundry room with shower, toilet, and two cots. Never been happier to be out of the wet, even if crammed in a tiny space. But heck, three's company.

The rain finally let up when we got to Marion VA on 6/10, a nice, noteworthy town. 

The weather was wonderful for two days, less humid and much cooler, almost like fall briefly. On 6/15 I stayed once more at Woods Hole hostel, in the bunkhouse this time; but host Neville was out of town so no meals except a continental breakfast of homemade bread and jam -- still wonderful.

In Pearisburg I persuaded Wizard and Sal to try their very first slack packing, which they thoroughly enjoyed, taking turns carrying just one mostly empty pack between them and cracking out easy 20 mile walks. These and some more big mileage days carried us the rest of the way to Daleville.

So a very fine way to end this 11 week trip. When the heat and humidity hit in early May I mailed my sleeping bag back, thinking I could make do with a liner and wearing more clothes. Did not work well when the rain brought cooler temps, but I managed. Changing from boots to runners was long overdue -- the Salomons were great (no hammer toes or blisters) but proved defective or ineffectual in staying waterproof. Then again, the Altra runners toe caps started peeling back after a week of stumbling in the rain, but they also were under warranty. I epoxied them back together, and they lasted 300 miles, but now I get to replace them for free as well! The Altra soles seem to be wearing normally, and they were easy to adapt to and should work fine in Maine.

Here are the failed Salomon boots

And the Altras.

 Now taking the summer off, doing some biking and lots of grandparenting, waiting for September before starting up again at Mt. Washington after Labor Day to finish number 3 AT.

Erwin TN

Hot weather continues, 2nd week of 80 degrees up high, 90s below like today at the Nolichucky River, Uncle Johnnys hostel. At least not too humid, and breeze helps. Tough miles up and down exposed balds, and the biggest of all Roan Mt is just ahead.

Day off, Hot Springs, 570 miles (more than 1/2) of the southern AT now done

I let the Smokies roll right by without comment, even my uneventful Gatlinburg resupply. Some rain and thick cloud up to then, but finally cleared off as high pressure system moved in. Hot and buggy, but not humid and the breeze helping keep the biting gnats off, sometimes. Going to stay extra warm the next week, so summer has come too early for my liking. Hiking at speed with bunch of hikers since the NOC, including Sock Monkey (French), Wizard and Sal (sisters from Canada), Escapee (woman always looking for ways to get off trail, not sure if she wants to keep hiking), even young speedy guys like Thor and Lupo. Lots of others behind, many ahead, a seeming little bubble of hikers. But despite heat and bugs, and a sore from overuse left knee, looks like I'm continuing on. Reese, friend from Smith will slack pack with me out and back to Hot Springs tomorrow, before he goes back to his cats in Knoxville in the evening. On his way home he'll drop me off back up the trail, so I will only carry full pack a few miles tomorrow.

Coincidental trail, Franklin NC

1. A few days ago I met a friendly couple out day hiking, in their 40s with a condo in Florida and cabin near Springer. They had lived in Boston in the late 90s when Chris got a MBA at BU while Cathy worked at Mugar library, where I had worked in the late 70s, so we knew lots of folks in common. Took a photo and sent it to her former supervisor Doreen, from whom I still get Xmas cards. She was suitably astonished.
2. Last night Long Branch shelter I met early 60ish Marta, aka Clover, who us doing her 2nd AT, this time nobo. In 2006 she hiked it sobo, and hiked quite a ways with a young guy named Snapshot in VA. Rodney and I had hiked with him earlier in PA, and Snapshot had told her a few choice and memorable Rotten and Old Blue stories, involving alcohol.
3. Also at the  shelter was a young Canadian woman named Sour Orange who hiked much of the trail last year. She had encountered Kibs back then after he broke his leg in VT and was being hauled down the mountain by a crew of hikers she was with, and was sorry she had missed him this year.

Today I headed into Franklin NC to avoid the very wet weekend weather forecast. I went to one of the outfitters since my left boot was wearing excessively, and they checked with the manufacturer on my behalf. They just called to say it was under warranty and will replace with new boots. Excellent news.
Now waiting to see if Kibs wanders in tonight or tomorrow in the rain.

Confederate Memorial Day being observed in Franklin NC

Hiawassee

Had 2 nice days and views on this beautiful part of north Georgia, leaves and flowers out, as are the bugs. But we did see an immature Luna moth right on the trail, and other hikers have seen a bear. Another rainy spell coming in, so hoping to get to Franklin NC soon -- 2 breweries and 2 hostels, a real trail town I haven't been to before.

Georgia

Now at Neel Gap, 31 miles from Springer, staying at Mountain Crossings hostel. Rain seems to be holding off, but warm with high humidity. Can't wait to take a shower here. Met a few more interesting people, several of them out hiking on missions like Kibs. One guy with MS, trying to raise awareness; ditto a woman Army vet with PTSD and a service dog. Speaking of Kibs, I left him at a shelter with a bunch of nice people content to do fewer miles than me. He may catch up with me tonight, since I stopped here after only 8 miles today. Forecast is for a strong thunderstorm this afternoon, rain tonight, so that might motivate him.

Troutville VA, 300 miles

Suddenly summer, humid and 80s, down here in the valley, talking to hiker who came close to heat stroke yesterday. Glad we are sitting in air conditioning, waiting until later for ride to Lynchburg and that midnight train to Georgia. Will be different hiking north, with the flow, rather than pushing through the oncoming tsunami of northbounders.
Hoping to beat the heat up in the mountains, and get back north before the real hot weather arrives.

Matt's Creek shelter

Waynesboro zero

Showers off and on, waiting out tornado watch and oncoming storms, pouring by 4. Debate wisdom of zero vs. long slack today, but now wondering how wet trail will be. Might just walk a while with Kibs.

Waynesboro VA, end of Shenandoah

7 1/2 days, just like 5 years ago, only much more rain. Familiar scenes.
Blogger still not posting photos, even after reinstalling.

Skyland resort

Sun and then mist, rain later, yogurt, chocolate chip cookie and hot tea, amidst the tourists. First northbounders, who report hearing that the norovirus is aleady striking the oncoming  herd in central VA. Oh well.

Front Royal

5 days, 54 miles, warm days, cool nights with slight showers. Meeting interesting people, many small coincidences:
Thru hiker #4, Wrong way, started Jan.2, wearing exact same shirt --his from hiker box, mine found in parking lot of Goodwill in Spokane, biking by.
Sarge, also 69, Vietnam instead of college, both of us with leg scars from having squamous cell cancers cut out. He struck an Ahab look, long white beard and a harpoon like walking stick.
Lone Bull, likewise 69, same Osprey pack but has congestive issues, still out hiking.
Tomorrow Shenandoah.
But tonight at same hostel Rodney and I stayed, 5 years ago the main house a wreck but today a deluxe BnB.

Bears Den hostel

2nd day on trail, breaking myself  in gradually. Repeating what Rodney and I did in 2014, without the snow we started in then.  Warming up, might be a thunderstorm tomorrow. Haven't met any northbounders yet, just too many scout troops out for the weekend.
Planning 5 days for the 55 miles to Front Royal.
Blogger won't let me post my photo at ATC HQ in Harper's Ferry for some reason. Have to try again when I have better WiFi connection.

3rd time's the charm

I'll be heading down to Harper's Ferry once again, aiming to hike south on the AT for about 3 weeks and hoping for an uncrowded trail at first. Once I run into the oncoming mass of northbound thru-hikers (and the "no-walk" norovirus that is the scourge of central VA about then) I will then skip out to Lynchburg VA and catch the train to Georgia. I will then start north around the beginning of May, maybe before the college graduates flock to Springer. This way I might be able to stay tucked in between the largest waves of hikers -- wishful thinking since the trail is always well trodden this time of year. I will hike up to where I got off the trail in VA, finishing the 1000 miles of the southern AT by the end of June. That will leave only the Mt. Washington to Katahdin section to do in September, completing my 3rd complete AT.

That's the plan, anyway. As I have learned, best laid plans rarely go the way you expect.

This time around I won't try for an active record of my travels, just the occasional postcard posting to mark the passage.

Another week on the trail, Manchester Center VT to Hanover NH

This is the stretch I skipped in fall 2015, when an incredible streak of perfect fall weather persuaded me to jump ahead and do the Whites and leave this for another time. Such as another nice run of sunny weather this year, at least for the first 5 days. Some wonderful sunsets and dark night skies, but didn't see the Orionids because the shelters and tent sites were mostly under trees. Besides, I went to bed early and it was cold enough not to want to go look for clearer views. As for the leaves, mostly past peak color, if there was that much this dry hot year. Still a great time to be on the trail.

Little Rock Pond

Got my first serious blister in 20 years, on the side of my left heel, from not keeping left boot laced up tight enough -- forgot that it was a hot spot this spring solved by stabilizing heel better. Then the last 3 days of rain, featuring heavy downpours and wind, knocking most remaining leaves down and jumping from August to November overnight. Everything stayed soggy, but oh the special joy of putting on my last clean and dry pair of socks that final day for the 15 miles into Hanover, even if they got damp fast, splashing across overflowing streams.

Stoney Brook Shelter

Bear Mt. NY to Salisbury CT, April 2017, a week on the AT

Back on the AT after 1 1/2 years. Last year was all about cyclo-touring, 5000 miles over 4 months, Washington, Oregon, Illinois to Ontario, then UK and Netherlands. Very nice trip.
Figured I was due for a trail refresher, so picked up where I left off 2 years ago to have surgery, knocking off an "easy" stretch of the AT. Easy if in hiking shape, not so much for me starting out with up and down NY. Two warm and wet days brought out the black flies and I pulled a tick off my last morning. Otherwise just right, though this 5 ft black snake was a surprise.

And Wiley Shelter had this nice amenity, the Dover Plains Little Library, courtesy of the real Dover Plains public library.

Ended in Salisbury with a nice big salad and great beer at the White Hart Inn, and stayed with the indomitable Maria McCabe, 81 year old Italian war bride, twice widowed and since then mothering AT hikers for the last 19 years.

And then back to the reality of hanging with my 5 month old grandson Peter Montgomery-Baecher.

Rainy end

After second day of heavy rain, decided to stop at Pinkham Notch and head back to the world. Left knee and both Achilles tendons all counseled caution, cold and wind sealed the deal. Until another time.

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Ethan Pond shelter 9/28, AMC Highlands Center 9/29

Long day Monday, 14.5 miles, though last 4 mostly level past Zealand Falls hut. To Ethan Pond, drizzling foretelling heavy rains coming next few days. Beautiful run of sun had to end sometime. Very dark early, and once again alone, except for the moose bugling later from the pond.



Hiked in heavy blowing rain Tuesday morning, to Highland Center bunkhouse (again all to myself) and a wet day to stay dry and relax, just like Corey and I did in 2005.

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Garfield Ridge shelter 9/27

Steep climb up to Franconia Ridge, barely one mile an hour. But then above treeline and stunning views from Mt. Lafayette.
Down and up to Garfield shelter, a very difficult and tiring 11 mile day. Full moon with lunar eclipse, but I go to sleep by 8:30 and miss most of it, catching tail end at 11.

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Slacking Kinsman 9/26

Staying 2 nights at the wonderfull Notch Hostel in N.Woodstock, just opened in July, very nice place and people. Justin drove me out to Kinsman Notch so I could slack pack 18 miles over Kinsman Mt to Franconia Notch, carrying about 10lbs instead of 30, returning to same comfy hostel. I did the same thing in 1982, hitching back and forth to a motel, but in 2005 nephew Corey and I carried full gear and camped one night. All things considered, much prefer slacking.
Tough hiking regardless, beautiful day.

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